The SKil 5280-01 is a wallet-friendly circular saw best for DIY enthusiasts and weekend warriors to carry out their woodworking projects without investing too much on one tool.Īlthough the Skil 5280-01 is not very expensive, it does not lack in quality and user-friendly features. If you’re looking for a very affordable but quality Skilsaw circular saw, then you should definitely go for this one. Skil 5280-01 7-1/4 Inch Sidewinder With Single Beam Laser Guide Related: The Best Scroll Saws for Cutting Complex Curves and Patterns 5.
It’s made by Skil, hence you can be sure of many years of service from this Southpaw SPT67M8-01 model. You can get a lot of cuts carried out without feeling the weight in your hands. Like the previous saws in this list, this mode is also made of magnesium metal, which means it’s very lightweight. It’s a saw you can use to cut both hard and engineered wood for applications like decking, framing, ceiling and siding. It has a 56 degree bevel capacity and features positive stops at 0 and 45 degrees respectively. The Southpaw SPT67M8-01 sidewinder comes equipped with a 7-1/4 inch blade and has a cutting depth of 2-7/16 inches when cutting at 90 degrees. It’s a left hand or left blade circular saw which means you have more visibility of the blade and cutline when you’re cutting with it. Skilsaw SPT70WM-01 10-1/4 SAWSQUATCH Worm Drive Circular SawĮnough said about Skilsaw worm drive circular saws, if you need a Skilsaw sidewinder model, then this SOUTHPAW SPT67M8-01 left blade or left hand circular saw will definitely meet your needs, especially if you’re a leftie. With a 6-1/4 inch cutting depth capacity, you can bring out some of your thickest lumber, even lay sheet goods on top of sheet goods, this blade will go through them all at time. It’s meant for the biggest of boards, and the toughest of projects. The Skilsaw SPT70V-11 Super SAWSQUATCH is one with an unusual size. The Skilsaw SPT70V-11 comes equipped with a 15 AMP Dual-Field motor that keeps the it running cool and efficiently.Īn inbuilt electric brake quickly stops the blade once you’re through cutting with it, which is a very good safety feature to have in a machine of this size. The magnesium construction also makes it very strong and durable. It has almost all its components made of magnesium metal which makes it very lightweight compared to its huge size. This is a beast, it’s the biggest meant for the toughest and largest jobs you can ever hope to tackle with a circular saw. This is not just any worm drive circular saw. It’s a worm drive unit that comes equipped with a blade that is 16-5/16 inches in size, and boasts a 6-1/4 inch cut capacity. You people rock, and if I haven't forgotten I'll post shots of the finished bed frame.We figured, if we’re going to review Skilsaw circular saws, why not start with the largest of them all? The Skilsaw SPT70V-11 Super SAWSQUATCH.
Scariest thing I ever did with a circular saw was stand on the top rung of a ladder and cut notches into roofing plywood - and that was a direct drive, and I definitely self-medicated with a bit of Tito's that night, well after I was finished.
Note to the respondent who noted the dangers of worm drive - thank you! I already knew, and have a healthy terror of kickback. I'm leaving a photo here of how it looks, and will check back in a bit - let me know if what I did is in some way dangerous or unsafe. Now I tried holding the blade with a pair of slip-joint pliers and couldn't get the bolt to budge. I got a hefty washer on there, threaded the bolt back on, tightened the you-know-what out of it, and the difference is obvious without even running it - before, I could hold the blade with my fingers and spin the shaft with a wrench. So it's a problem with the blade thickness. I got the bolt off (yes, reverse thread) and yes, the diamond knockout is knocked out. Any help would be appreciated!Įdit: Thank you all for your suggestions! This scares me, but I really want to be able to fix ths so I can get back to cutting. No jerk or bounce-back, the shaft spins but the blade is obviously not tight to the shaft. If there's no real drag it cuts fine, but the least thing makes the blade just stop. We replaced the blade for something newer, as I've got some cabinetry to tackle - but neither he nor I can get the blade to tighten down. It's an old solid metal case, the thing weighs like three times the Ryobi direct drive, but when it's running, it doesn't feel like anything at all! I love the darned thing. I was having so much trouble controlling a direct drive circular saw due to the gyroscopic twist when starting it up, my "adopted brother" found me this wonderful worm drive Skilsaw. I'm on a farm, and I'm a little person learning to do big work.